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Friday, August 19, 2011

Do you have buried treasure in your jewelry box?

Do you have buried treasure in your jewelry box?
You know that old ring — the one stuffed away in the corner of your jewelry box? A dusty old clunker of a ring, passed down from a dearly departed relative. You would feel guilty getting rid of it, yet the ring is so hopelessly unfashionable that you've never worn it and know you never will.
Or maybe you have a gold bracelet from a high-school or university sweetheart. Back in those early, innocent days of dating (when gold was selling at less than $400 an ounce), a gold bracelet said: "I think you're awesome and so I will buy you jewelry because I know girls like that, but I'm only 20 and if I buy you a ring, you might freak out and think it means marriage." Back then, those 14K serpentine links meant everything to you. Now, the bracelet looks kind of um, quaint, and you can't even remember which cute boy gave it to you.
Nostalgia aside, the price of gold recently rose to over $1,700 an ounce. Dig deep - you may have buried treasure in your jewelry box.
Why is the price of gold so high?
When financial markets are turbulent and economic uncertainty looms, investors seek "safe havens" and that means buying up gold. Even governments will buy gold to shore up their own reserves if they are feeling panicked, as Greece, South Korea and Thailand have recently done. With greater demand, supply shrinks and the price shoots upward.
Retail value versus salvage value
When you buy gold jewelry, you are paying for more than just the cost of the metal. A jeweler must buy gold to make her own designs and therefore her cost of business is massively affected by the ever-changing price of gold. She puts in her design skills, labour and factors in overhead and marketing costs to finally arrive at a retail price for the gold ring she creates.
When you bring in a ring to sell to a jeweler, she may buy it for 'scrap' or 'salvage'. She will remove any stones from the jewelry, melt the metal down and pay to have it "refined" — to the point where the metal can be used to make new jewelry. The condition or type of jewelry you bring in is not important — the price the jeweler will pay you is based on the market price of gold plus a fee for the service of refining.
Selling second-hand
If your gold has some unique vintage appeal, is set with some fabulous quality stones, or is by a famous designer such as a Tiffany & Co. (NYSE: TIF) or Harry Winston (TSX:HW), you may consider selling the piece to a second-hand jeweler, placing on consignment or selling through an auction house. For any of these methods, you will need to have an appraisal, confirming the authenticity, quality, design and value of the piece of jewelry.
The price you get for 'estate jewelry' will depend on the quality, condition, rarity and intangible 'vintage' value. Choose a jeweler or auction house that specializes in vintage and estate jewelry.  Make sure you understand any fees involved for photography, marketing, cataloguing, insurance and commission. You will likely receive a share of the profit, so once the piece sells don't expect to earn the full-appraised value. However, if the sale price is significantly higher than what you could fetch on eBay (or surprises you by selling for more than the appraisal), you might end up with a nicer sum than you expect.
Being refined about it
Hilary Druxman of Hilary Druxman Design - a Winnipeg-based designer who has designed private collections for Saks Fifth Avenue, Banana Republic and Club Monaco - offers the following tips when selling your old gold:
1.       Gather it up — Search the corners of your jewelry box for broken chains, unmatched earrings or pieces you never wear and bring them in for a bulk sale. "Little pieces really add up," says Hilary. "People are surprised when they bring in a small bag of what they considered junk and then find out what the gold is worth."
2.       Karats matter — The higher the karats, the better price you will get. Gold jewelry that is marked 24K (karats) is pure gold and will command the highest salvage value as well as the highest resale value. 18K, 14K, 12K and 10K are alloys - mixtures of gold and other metals - and will therefore have lower salvage value.
3.       Not just gold — Silver and platinum are also experiencing high market prices and can be sold to jewelers for melting down and refinement.
4.       Keep your stones — According to Hilary, most customers choose to keep the stones she unsets from their gold jewelry. Gems often show wear and tear (yes, even diamonds!) and don't hold the value the same way as metal, which can be refined. Since jewelers and diamond traders are used to buying loose stones at wholesale prices, they are not likely to be interested in buying a used stone for anything but a bargain bin price. The exception would be stones from some estate jewelry, or what the auction houses would call "an important stone" — you know, the kind of diamond that comes with its own name.
5.       Deal with a reliable jeweler — Stay away from those "Cash for Gold" pawnshops! These shops are the equivalent of going to a paycheque-cashing service rather than your own bank to cash a cheque. You will be charged high fees and not receive as favourable a rate than if you go to a reputable jeweler whom you can trust. As well, in working with a jeweler, you can negotiate to have your metal recast or stones reset into new creations.
6.       Recast & reset— Rather than taking the cash, once your jewelry has been melted down, you may choose to have it fashioned into a new piece that you will love. This way you can still carry the spirit of granny's gift with you whenever you wear your new bling. You can do the same with any stones the jeweler has unset from the scrap metal.
7.       Trade up — If you choose to sell your gold to a jeweler whose designs you love, you can always use the proceeds of your metal meltdown as a credit toward one of the shop's lovely creations.
Golden karma
To assuage any guilt you might feel at selling an old sentimental piece of jewelry, consider the good karma that comes from reusing, reselling and recycling. At the Hilary Druxman Inc. workshop in Winnipeg, all scrap metal and sweepings produced in the manufacturing of jewelry are saved and recycled. Even dust is sent off to be refined and recycled back into the world's precious metal market.
Hilary encourages clients to bring her their old gold as part of this commitment to reduce the long-term effects of metal mining on the earth's natural resources. "Old metals, whether gold, silver or platinum, can be melted down and turned into new jewelry," Hilary says, "This minimizes the demand for newly mined metals."
Now, how's that for a feel-good ending? You get a little extra money in your pocket and help save the world. We think your granny would approve.

GoldenGirlFinance.ca is a free personal finance and education site for women.
Nothing contained herein is intended to provide personalized financial, legal or tax advice. Before implementing any financial strategy, you should obtain information and advice from your financial, legal and/or tax advisers who are fully aware of your individual circumstances.